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Longines, in green and against all odds

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It would be easy to dismiss yet another vintage watch. To stand up against this never-ending trend. Even to criticize a lack of inspiration. And yet…

By Olivier Müller

And yet, the new Longines Legend Diver hits the spot. Since its release a few days ago, the bronze beauty has received nothing but praise. Why? Probably because the piece, originally released in the 60s, manages to exude an air of novelty while relying on vintage fundamentals. These include the typography of the Roman numerals, the cursive “Automatic” wording, and the very atypical shape of the hour hand, a point of an assegai that could be reminiscent of the Parmigiani Fleurier.

On the other hand, the watch draws from modernity what it needs so that from vintage, it does not become outdated. We appreciate in particular the 42 mm diameter, the automatic movement with silicon balance spring, sapphire glass (no longer hesalite) and, above all, the very nice NATO bracelet, supplied. With its brown leather companion, they give each to the piece a radically different aesthetic, sometimes wise, sometimes adventurous. The change of bracelet will be easy: Longines provides the tool dedicated to manipulation.

Dedicated to diving, the watch has two crowns: the first for winding and setting the time, the second for turning the internal diving bezel – the one that is graduated from 15 to 15 and allows you to know your immersion time. The Legend Diver is waterproof to 300 meters.

Our opinion: “The combination of green and bronze is not common – indeed, singularly rare. Longines was able to dare the combination and the result shines with a thousand lights. Eventually, the bronze will develop a patina, making each watch truly unique. The green gradient of black is of the most beautiful effect – with the possible regret that it is not more readable: the two levels of indexes occupy a significant place. The dial would have gained in subtlety to be equipped with thinner and / or less numerous indexes. The only thing left is the price. This beautiful Legend Diver is one of the most expensive in its Heritage collection – at the same price as a single push-button column-wheel chronograph with date, which the Legend Diver lacks. The Price of Singularity?” Olivier Müller

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