It aggregates the best to make… even better. How far to push vintage fashion? Zenith’s answer.
Olivier Müller
Zenith is a brand apart in the watchmaking landscape: it is the only one whose reputation is based not on a watch model, but on a caliber, the mechanical movement that drives its timepieces. Its name: El Primero, as the first automatic series chronograph capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. Released in 1969, its success is such that it has built the reputation of the brand and even equipped some models of houses yet competitors, starting with a certain Rolex Daytona. Today, the El Primero movement is still a must in Zenith collections.
Zenith now offers a new case for its movement. The Swiss manufacture unveils a geometry that synthesizes the most beautiful designs of its former models such as the A277, the Rainbow, the De Luca or the Striking 10th, which were mainly released between 1969 and the 2000s. The new Chronomaster Sport was born from these sporty, nervous designs.
This piece is therefore not distinguished by its aesthetic creativity. Its forms are consensual, efficient and widely tested. In its 2021 version, the case has sharper lines. Its bezel is now made of ceramic, a material that was not mastered in the last century. It is significantly wider than its inspirers, and therefore more readable. Finally, the brand has developed a new rubber strap with a Cordura effect, an extremely resistant fabric used in particular on technical clothing.
His movement, on the other hand, has more than one merit. It has been optimized and patented. Its power reserve has been increased by ten hours to 60 hours. Moreover, Zenith does not hide its will to use it for future models. It is also visible through the sapphire back of the watch, a pleasure that collectors rarely shun.
Our opinion: “The Chronomaster Sport cleverly plays both sides: vintage, with an extremely consensual and reassuring look, and modern, with an interesting evolution of the El Primero. The famous 1/10th of a second can be read more easily and the increased power reserve of 10 hours offers a tangible and useful added value to daily life. We also appreciate the contained price: from 9200 euros on fabric strap. The price is high but the piece has an aesthetic that should not go out of fashion, and a latest generation manufacture movement – which we can only regret that it does not include silicon exhaust, which would have made it insensitive to magnetic fields.” Olivier Müller
