The essayist Pierre Rabhi has made a name for himself by advocating “happy sobriety”. What if this new Oris “Carl Brashear” was the manifesto?
Olivier Müller
Fine watchmaking is a luxury, and as such, its stratospheric prices are often forgiven. Oris, 100% independent and centuries old (founded in Holstein in 1904, where it is still located), has always fought against this. For years, it has been moving forward under the motto “Real watches for real people”. The idea: the watch at the price of a house and worn in a tuxedo exists, but in most cases, “normal” people rarely put more than a few thousand euros in a piece they will wear every day.
It is in this perspective that the new variation of the Carl Brashear was born. It was created in partnership with the eponymous foundation, in honor of the diver Carl Brashear, one of the first divers of color in the early 1950s and then, following an accident, the first diver to serve the army with an amputated limb. He joined the company in 1948 and did not retire until 1979.
The piece that bears its name is a watch as simple as it is perfectly balanced. This limited edition of 2,000 pieces has a 40 mm case and a bronze bezel, worn on a strap made of blue elastic nylon webbing with a white border. Its heart is driven by the brand new caliber 401. This is the new manufacture movement developed by Oris. Highly anti-magnetic, it is automatic and offers a power reserve of 120 hours, or five full days.
Our opinion Oris continues to develop the right watch, well-proportioned and powered by a high-quality caliber. It is by no means revolutionary, but it will be faithful and reliable. Thanks to its bronze case, which should develop a slight patina over the years, each watch will gradually become unique. Positioned at 3,700 euros, the piece is once again fairly priced. Its limited edition of 2,000 pieces should keep the price stable, if not rising. Why deprive yourself?” Olivier Müller