Extravagance has often been a part of high jewelry creations. With audacity, she lets a wind of freedom slip over the jewelry collections, subject to a rigorous technique and precise codes. A true signature of the great Houses, extravagance underlines their personality, opening the infinite field of their creativity.
By Nathalie Koelsch
To overcome the unprecedented crisis that has swept the planet, creation has given his imagination, competing with elegance and good humor, to better surprise with collections that are as free as they are carefree. Shimmering gems, associations of acidulous colors, new materials that rub shoulders with the precious stones in a refined marriage, the elements are mixed without being collide according to a natural balance. The great Houses as well as the creators have explored new territories, reinventing new combinations of a luminous jewelry.
Buccellati, whose know-how, inherited from five centuries of Italian art, has been mastering 1919 the technique of filigree and metal lace, dares to venture towards valuable and original associations. Under the spell of an amazing diamond rose-cut cognac, her cocktail ring is embellished with a large mesh of yellow gold, gold white and diamonds. The brilliance of the gems, the golden reflections of the stone of center and the lace openings spread on the hand express all the audacity of a rejuvenated Buccellati.
The new Cartier’s Haute Joaillerie collection plays with reality. Opening a towards abstraction, she transforms water, fauna and flora into stylizing the forms to keep only the spirit of a snake to the huge eyes of pale green beryl or the iridescent spots of an unreal coat. The mystery remains intact under the magic of the precious stones that summon the the supernatural and the fantastic, the opal answering to the kunzite, the coral to the aquamarine, the beryl to the quartz and to the fires of the colored diamonds.
Acidulated compositions
The exuberance is manifest in the acidulous compositions of the House of Harry Winston which celebrates with “Winston in Bloom” the blossoming of new buds in a explosion of freshness and bright colors. Dior, the turbulent parent of the jewelry, is not to be outdone with “Dior and me”. His Haute Joaillerie collection transgressive brings together exceptional gems and semi-precious stones circled with lacquer, reinventing with singularity the classic daisy chains, without constraint of form or tone. In a joyful and colorful whirlwind, the diamonds, emeralds and colored sapphires meet the spinels reds, tourmalines and opals, fetish gems of Victoire de Castellane.
The warm brown shades that dress inspired Isabelle Langlois as well as Lydia Courteille. In an agreement with autumnal colors, Isabelle Langlois marries feathers and gems in a daring composition that shakes up with sensuality the rules of the jewelry. Its delicately carved feathers caress the hand, extending the jewel paved with precious stones of a train colorful. Known for her creative freedom, Lydia Courteille mixes with a sense of of the staging, the History and the jewel in baroque creations and theatricals. A true invitation to travel, its amber room echoes the amber room of Empress Catherine II in the Tsarskoye Selo Palace near Saint Pertersbourg. As for Gabriela Sismann, art historian, she hijacks without complex the pieces of old goldsmithery, makes them cross the ages to offer them a new life through the jewels that she conceives.
Classics transform or expand traditional components to better sublimate them and give them another dimension. The long chains the Tweed Chaîne necklace by Chanel maintained by two patterns woven of gold, platinum, tsavorites, of pearls and diamonds revive the elegance of a multi-row necklace. Wings of light of Piaget reinvents a shimmering jewelry, carried by luminous feathers with exotic accents. Inlaid with feathers or set with navette cut gems to compose a wing of light, Piaget develops his style inspired by the chic and festive atmosphere of the Riviera, adding a dreamlike dimension original. Chopard’s creative genius as seen in its Red collections Carpet, pays tribute to nature. Behind the classic motifs, Christmas trees Christmas, clovers or flowers, the jeweler gives free rein to his imagination, multiplying the use of precious stones with hypnotic depths and striking color gradations. Talented creator, Inédit transforms a a simple black and white bow into a sculptural ring that covers the hand of her blackened gold mesh hemmed with diamonds while Graaf adorns with rubies engraved in leaves her spectacular earrings.
