In 2019, Hélène Darroze undertook a complete renovation of her restaurant on rue d’Assas in Paris, now named Marsan. She practices her best cooking in an elegant, modern and cosy environment.
In 2019, Hélène Darroze undertook a complete renovation of her Left Bank Parisian gourmet restaurant on rue d’Assas. Completely redesigned by architect Patrice Gardera, the establishment, now named Marsan in homage to the Landes region where the chef was born, unfolds its elegant room on the second floor in a refined and cosy setting made of light woods, pearly walls, carpeting and sand-colored designer furniture. Modernized, the restaurant now has an open kitchen with a table for six – Hélène’s table – and an apparent cellar.
With Marsan, Hélène Darroze, the world’s best female chef by the Veuve Cliquot award in 2015, does not his desire to get closer to his roots in the southwest and to be concentrate on the essentials: his favorite producers, the accuracy of his of the product and the truth of a kitchen that does not cheat. If his second star, obtained in 2003, was lost in 2010, that is not so much the problem. Hélène Darroze, who remains one of the few Michelin-starred women chefs, has lost none of its talent and rigor.
His farm squab cooked with a drop of blood and flambéed with capucin, accompanied by a beautiful beet and plums, reflects this requirement through a cooking of a rare perfection and a fair place offered to the products. On the day of our visit, Patricia Ortelli’s red wines from Château de la Calisse, in particular the Cuvée Etoiles 2010, suited her perfectly. The vertical carpaccio of red mullet and button mushroom, with Perigord walnuts and fir-tree flavored vinaigrette, is a top-notch starter. Joseph Mellot’s Sancerre, particularly the 2015 Grande Chatelaine, responds to it quite correctly.
> 4 rue d’Assas, 75006 PARIS
