Facing the church of Saint-Germain des Près, in the heart of the sixth arrondissement of Paris, the restaurant of the fashion designer Armani, one of the few Italian starred restaurants in the capital, pays a beautiful tribute to Italy and Sicily thanks to the talent and the sympathy of its chef, Massimo Tringali.
By Romain Rivière
Sequins are not rare among fashion designers, but here, at Armani, facing the magnificent church of Saint-Germain des Près whose renovation is almost completeIn 2018, one year after major renovations, the new building is a shining star, Armani Ristorante has become one of the few starred Italian restaurants in the capital.
In the very chic sixth arrondissement, opposite the Café de Flore, the establishment of the great Italian couturier has been given a little facelift and now boasts a contemporary decoration, not crazy but airy and elegant. Installed on the mezzanine, above the Caffé – the Armani bistro – this intimate gastronomic restaurant offers on one side a view of a kitchen sheltered behind large glass windows, and on the other side a view of the boulevard and the Place Saint-Germain des Près. White tablecloths, armchairs and benches in sand or taupe leather, this is the setting.
When he arrives, it is the Sicilian atmosphere that comes with him: with an accent full of sunshine, a jovial and warm smile, the Sicilian chef Massimo Tringali likes to talk about his island, his passions, his friends who supply him, and of course his cuisine to the guests. The journey begins. And to complete the change of scenery, a few scents of olive oil picked still green several weeks before the time, with a delicious vegetal perfume and a racy taste, constituting a greedy and coherent appetizer. Sicily is there, in the heart of Paris.
While the nectar is being tasted, the chef polishes his dishes in the kitchen, with all the rigor that is his. A light and uncluttered cuisine but not without creativity and finesse. The parade begins and it is a faultless. The result is products from Sicily, Piedmont and Lombardy of the highest quality, such as the gambas fished at a depth of 700 meters off the Italian island, with a powerful taste, and served with crisp artichokes and a generous drizzle of the superb oil brought back by the chef himself. Balance, freshness, finesse: great art.
Behind the stove, the execution is perfectly mastered; just continue with the ravioli del plin stuffed with ricotta and yellow tomato from Vesuvius: of course, the products are fresh, but the cooking is superb and the combination of flavors and textures are no less so. The suite is up to the task. As for the lemon granita, which plays the role of a Norman hole in a mixture of flavors and greed, it is a brilliant dessert: ten days are needed to prepare it, but what a flavor!
If, undoubtedly, Armani Ristorante constitutes one of the best Italian tables in Paris, it would undoubtedly gain by proposing portions more in adequacy with the bill.
> 149 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 PARIS
