It is one of the most beautiful and oldest restaurants in Paris. Guy Martin, at the helm for more than 25 years, proudly displays his two stars.
Crossing the threshold of Le Grand Véfour, one of the great restaurants of the capital, is a journey through time. In the heart of the Palais Royal and its timeless galleries, this restaurant, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Paris, is also the oldest among them since it crosses generations, without aging, since the end of the 18th century. Its sumptuousness is due to Jean Véfour, who acquired it in 1820 to make it the most luxurious establishment in the capital, in order to outdo his rivals in the neighborhood. From then on, the great names of art, politics and literature became regulars of a place now full of history and anecdotes, which Flavien Develet, the new and young manager of the restaurant does not fail to tell the interested parties.
The first marvel of Le Grand Véfour remains the place, a jewel of 18th century decorative art with its woodwork carved with Louis XVI garlands, and its mirrors alternating with paintings under glass. Sitting at Victor Hugo’s table or at General Bonaparte’s, the human-sized room (45 place settings arranged in two lounges), listed as a historical monument, reveals its splendors in an atmosphere that is at once chic, surprising and convivial.
The kitchen of the Grand Véfour has been run for more than 25 years by the relatively discreet Savoyard chef Guy Martin, one of the worthy representatives of French gastronomy and winner of numerous French and international awards. Its menu, renewed every quarter, is based on 3 or 4 starters, main courses or desserts, to which are added the suggestions of the day and, of course, the great classics of the house: the Prince Rainier III pigeon, with foie gras and truffles, the very gourmet oxtail parmentier with truffles, or the indispensable ravioles of foie gras with truffled cream.
Among the proposals currently on the menu, let’s highlight a magnificent starter: the pressed red mullet served pink, saffron and flat parsley, osciètre caviar, on a cauliflower coulis: fresh, gourmand, superb. Pan-fried scallops, salsify confit with Tonka bean, shellfish juice enhanced with fresh turmeric, hold their own, as do langoustines rolled in vegetable charcoal powder. They reflect the values of a discreet but generous chef, eager to offer his guests an authentic gastronomic experience based on a classic but creative cuisine, designed to please. The desserts are not to be outdone: behind the timeless artichoke crème brûlée, high-level creations such as this manjari cube containing fresh mango, passion fruit marshmallow and caramelized macadamia nuts, for the most gourmet.
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