Crowns and other royal ornaments, even if they have lost some of their power to keep only the beauty and historical links, convey a part of dream, to which jewelers remain attached.
By Nathalie Koelsch
With humor or nostalgia, the jewelers bring back to life their own way the ornaments used by the monarchy, diverting them to consecrate the women of today, current sovereigns to whom they pay tribute. Probably because he is one of the youngest jewelers installed in Place Vendôme, Louis Vuitton wanted to have fun with the symbols of sovereignty. Regalia, its latest high jewelry collection, says long on its facetiousness. Through this line, he evokes the attributes of royal power, slipping into the heart of his creations the precious ornaments used by the monarchy to ensure the legitimacy of the person who uses them door. With a sense of detail and a lot of humor, the jeweler was inspired of the stylistic vocabulary of heraldry and phaleristics, the science of orders and decorations, in order to invent new insignia for a power that belongs to women. Multiplying the V’s like Vuitton, Regalia draws coats of arms that recall the quadrilobe fetish of the brand. Over the years of the collection, it evokes laurel wreaths, flowers, and the of lilies, distilling the symbols of power around exceptional stones. A dazzling yellow sapphire, a Paraiba tourmaline, a raspberry spinel, a tsavorite mint green, a lavender sapphire, the center stones stand out in majesty in the middle of diamonds, like a treasure hunted then enchased.
Chaumet has always maintained close relations with the crowned heads. This is evidenced by the many tiaras he has created throughout throughout its history. Josephine, his eternal muse, woman of taste and power, always watches over the destiny of the jewelry house, whose history, which began in 1780, is intertwined with the history of the of France. Passionate lover, the empress gave to her emotions the brightness of the diamond. The strength of his feelings inspired Chaumet to create a collection in form of a diadem in which the stones speak of love. Echoing the of the empress, the Josephine collection perpetuates a style with elegance and subtle, where tradition is put at the service of contemporary creation. It reinvents itself, playing with colors and pearls, in joyful compositions inspired by egrets. A beautiful tribute to an exceptional woman, free before who embodied femininity and power.
Symbols of the the past, the insignia of royalty, have frequently inspired Tiffany. The New York jeweler, which draws its history from the slender and graphic forms Art Deco buildings, has imagined keys worn as pendants and paved with diamonds. With their elaborate rings that evoke the flowers of lilies, they build a bridge between the old world embodied by Europe and the American modernity.
In pursuit and probably in memory of the royal ornaments and other Maharajas’ headdresses made since more than a century, the jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels revives all the magic of the tales and legends. Straight out of Grimm’s fairy tales, these princesses in the port of queen, join the fairies and the ballerinas created in New York in the 40’s. Mounted in very figurative clips, they carry dazzling ball gowns, beautiful tiaras and put the world at their feet. foot, with a dance step. As for the Danish jeweler Ole Lynggaard, his quality of supplier of the royal family gave him the sense of the jewels of apparat which sign a look. Close to a nature populated by elves and goblins, he created for his snow queen a tiara of gold and diamonds, decorated with wild roses and crystal berries of rock.
All of the princesses! This is undoubtedly what the creators who develop collections inspired by the crowns. Amen, the Italian brand playful and trendy, Château Euphorie and its high jewelry pay tribute to to women by offering them rings that evoke diadems, while Redline slips on a red thread as a bracelet a gold crown set of diamonds. To offer a royal ornament to its queen of heart, a nice gesture in by way of a statement.
